5/10/2022
After the dog park, Leigh, Cooper, and I hiked the five-mile Monte Nuovo to Lake Avernus loop around the volcano rim, a moderate trail with beautiful views just a short distance from their house.
Our antipasti - Insalata di polpo (octopus salad)
5/9/2022
All About Cooper (The Wonder Dog)
There is no question about who's in charge in this household. That would be Cooper, a mix of german shepherd and kelpie.
Most of you know I am not a fan of dogs, but this one is a hoot. I've never seen a dog that maintains eye contact when you speak, whose brain is tracking every word. He even cocks his head with Leigh's voice modulations, showing listening skills and engaging sympathetically like no other animal I've ever seen.
After I tested positive for Covid the day before I was supposed to return home and had to quarantine for seven days, he sensed my dilemma and wanted to be by my side.
He has impressive speed, is quick to learn, and can even summon a front desk clerk by ringing a bell!
5/8/2022
Campania, in Southern Italy, is the region with the most DOCG wines (21). La Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, Leigh and Will’s favorite winery, highlights today’s focus - a guided tour of the vineyards and cellar, followed by a tasting, ending with a five-course pairing of wines and brunch in their Restaurant La Collina.
Wine amphora clay vessels are used during the production process during fermentation, aging, or both.
5/7/2022
The following day, Will and Leigh gave me the grand
tour of their home. I expected to find them living on base in a cookie-cutter
World War II apartment similar to the brick ones in Alexandria, Virginia.
Instead, they chose to rent off-base in neighboring Pozzuoli—after visiting 16
rental properties.
They occupied the second level of a surprisingly spacious home—except for the kitchen and lack
of closet space.
Outdoor stairs led to an open rooftop, perfect for a panoramic neighborhood 360-degree viewing of Lake Avernus—the volcanic crater lake with extensive hiking trails and Roman ruins, Lake Lucrino, and the Gulf of Naples. The Aragonese Castle of Baia, a medieval fort built on Roman ruins, can be seen in the distance on the Gulf of Naples.
With Cooper in tow, we easily walked through the neighborhood, starting with an amazing pastry shop for a caloric breakfast of coffees and cornettos.
Leigh and Will spoke Italian and introduced me to shopowners as we visited the wine shop (priority) and market for groceries.
5/6/2022
My niece, Leigh, and her husband, Will, texted me to arrive hungry because it’s Naples. Of course, we needed to begin by visiting Ammaccamm, their favorite pizza restaurant.
Leigh and Will greeted me with a welcome hug—extra special when we realized we hadn’t seen each other since their wedding for almost four years because of Covid.
I marveled at Will’s kamikaze driving skills, which reminded me of Egyptians, but with less profanity and more polite honking. We arrived at Ammaccamm in one piece, squeezed into a tiny parking space, and entered the Pozzuoli neighborhood pizza restaurant, where pizza takes on a new dimension and rave reviews.
In my opinion, Napoli pizza satisfies people who prefer thin crust (which I never understood) and others who are serious about yeasty air pockets and resist the temptation to eat the leftover crust from others’ plates.
How could I fail to be impressed with the antipasto dish we shared—different shapes of macaroni and cheese, various cheeses, grilled cheese triangles, and more coated in Italian panko crumbs.
We ordered three pizzas containing combinations of toppings and herbs that I wouldn’t even consider mixing. Leigh’s favorite, Gialla (yellow) in Crosta, tinted by turmeric and topped with smoked mozzarella (not a fan of smoked cheese), was flavored with Indian spices (not one of my favorite cuisines). We laughed when I later chose that pizza as my favorite. Will ordered Friarieli Salsicia, tinted black and looking unappetizing but delicious with spinach and spicy sausage. I shared Piennolo Nouja, a spicy spreadable pork salami, mozzarella, and Mount Vesuvius tomatoes.
5/10/2022 After the dog park, Leigh, Cooper, and I hiked the five-mile Monte Nuovo to Lake Avernus loop around the volcano rim, a moderate ...
